Apply shellac with a high-quality natural or synthetic brush, photo below. If you don't own a spray gun, aerosol cans, photo below, provide an economical spray option for all but large furniture projects. previous one. Level out the finish using sandpaper backed with a hardwood block. sandpaper. We recommend that wood should not be subject to heavy use, and any water or other spills should be wiped off immediately during this time. Danish oil is for all woods including Teak wood, plum, pear, walnut, willow, totara, Sapele, and many other planks of wood. Above are two oak chopping blocks for illustration, prepared for oiling by sanding with 80 grit sandpaper. Danish oil goes on easily. © 2020 Meredith Corporation. Because Danish oil doesn't build like a film finish, stick with poly or choose lacquer (discussed later) for surfaces that may be exposed to liquids, wear, or abrasion. brush strokes to avoid overlapping To show this method, we again took an untreated oak chopping block. Furniture manufacturers use lacquer on mass-production assembly lines for a reason. Typically a Danish oil consists of a mixture of tung oil and varnish. Clean up any spills with mineral spirits and hang application rags unfolded over the edge of a trash can, or laid out flat on your shop floor. But realize it will take more coats to build a suitable finish. The idea of this method is to keep the wood surface’wet’ with Danish Oil for at least an hour until it has fully absorbed enough oil to provide a natural protective coating from deep within the wood. (You can find inexpensive scales at office-supply stores.) I did not wet sand for very long, just 5-7 minutes. As with any coating, surface preparation is extremely important in getting a satisfactory end result. After another hour we wiped the board again, although there were no obvious signs of surface oil at this stage and the board was dry to the touch, with a pleasant low sheen finish. It penetrates into the wood, unlike a film finish, which sits on the surface. Any ‘nibs’ or dust on the surface of the wood during oiling cannot be removed with this method of application until the wood has been left to dry for at least 24 hours. The performance of Danish Oil will continue to improve naturally for a week or two after application. Change sheets often, as shellac will quickly clog sandpaper. To ensure proper drying the temperature should be above 10 Degrees C and Danish Oil should not be applied in damp conditions. You don't have to worry about brush marks, but you'll get an even smoother finish by lightly "wet" sanding between the second and third coats. Applied Watco Danish Oil liberally and wet sanded using 320 grit wet/dry paper. When it comes to bringing out the natural beauty of a highly figured piece of wood, such as quilted maple or quartersawn oak, nothing beats a hand-rubbed Danish-oil finish. But it can be polished to a high gloss to enhance the depth of the wood's grain. It provides very good protection to woodworking project without obscuring the color and grain of the wood. Price usually indicates the difference between a quality bristle brush and a cheap one, but aren't those disposable foam brushes all the same? Typically, boiled linseed oil or tung oil is used. certain cut, then weigh them out. Avoid applying lacquer on humid days. Modern Danish Oil is a mixture of varnish and either linseed or tongue oil. For exterior use any rotten wood should be cut out and repaired prior to use of Danish Oil. As you can see in this closeup of the edges, the brush on the right has much larger pores that leave a ragged edge and could even shed. Foam brushes can be used on smaller pieces. Danish Oil may be applied to previously oiled surfaces. It’s not a film finish - it dries and hardens in the wood, not on the wood so your work piece will not have a ‘plastic’ look. Together, these ingredients really do bring out the natural beauty of the wood, while providing more surface protection than plain oil finishes. Application during the second day was the same as the first. Note: This method allows Danish Oil to penetrate deep into the timber, naturally waterproofing and nourishing when using our Tung Oil based product. Nitrocellulose dissolved in lacquer thinner provides a finish that deposits the cellulose fibers in a film as the thinner evaporates. To make a pint of 2-lb-cut shellac, you need to do a little math. The finer the flakes, the easier they dissolve, so crush the flakes in a clean cloth before adding them. (It was a poly finish previously). On previously stained or dyed surfaces it is advisable to test a small area first to make sure that the Danish Oil will produce the desired result. Waxed finishes, and all dirt and grease, should be removed with white spirit on a rag using vigorous agitation. The term "cut" refers to the number of pounds of shellac flakes mixed into one gallon of alcohol, so a two-lb cut has two lbs of flakes in a gallon of alcohol. A natural, nontoxic resin, shellac comes in a food-grade formula used to coat many of the candies you snack on. Consider one of these three other clear finishes for your next project. Once the finish fully cures, it can be buffed to a high sheen with #0000 steel wool and mineral oil. But poly may not always be the best choice. surface with finish, let it soak in Danish oil dries slowly, so wait overnight before recoating. Remove all the dust from its surface. Don't recoat until you don't smell the … That penetration gives a depth to the wood's grain that's hard to achieve with a film finish. Should a Danish finish suffer damage, reapply some oil with a little wet sanding to restore its original luster.

danish oil finish on oak

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